Another Edinburgh

At the beginning of 2020, I moved to Edinburgh with my partner. I'd lived in Cambridgeshire for ten years; I was both excited and nervous about such a big change in our lives. I'd visited Edinburgh a couple of times as a tourist, and I'd seen it in photographs, films and TV programmes. My outsider's impression of Edinburgh was of a majestic city of old buildings and dramatic scenery: the castle, Arthur's Seat, Calton Hill and the Old Town. All of that was there in reality when I arrived in early January, looking up in awe at the buildings that surrounded me after I left Waverley station to go to our new flat.

Our first year in the city turned out a little different than we expected. The COVID-19 pandemic meant that we were forced to localise our explorations and be much more attentive to the areas we could reach by walking or, at most, a short car journey. As a result, we explored more of Edinburgh's hidden corners than we would have otherwise. I soon realised there was more to the city than the classic postcard image with which it is most often associated.

Photographing my surroundings is a way of getting to know a place and in some way develop a relationship with it. I'm still a newcomer to this city, and also to Scotland. Whilst I've admired this country from afar for many years, I have no roots here. By observing and photographing the local landscapes and landmarks, I am in a process of learning and educating myself on Edinburgh's past, present and future. It's also a way to help myself feel more at home.

These are aspects of Edinburgh which have only recently become significant to me; which I would have had no knowledge of before we moved here. This is an ongoing project.

Anthony Gormley's 6 TIMES

Anthony Gormley's 6 TIMES

An instantly recognisable sculpture by Anthony Gormley on the Water of Leith, near the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art. There are six sculptures which follow a route from the gallery along the Water of Leith, with the final figure standing on the end of an old jetty at Leith Docks, near where the river meets the Firth of Forth. Gormley calls the series 6 TIMES. This is the second in the series.

Blackford Hill

Blackford Hill, in the south of the city, offers some of the most impressive views over Edinburgh, towards Arthur’s Seat and the Firth of Forth, as well as the Pentland Hills in the other direction. It’s a little further out of town than most of the usual tourist spots, and it feels like being on the edge of the hills rather than in the middle of a city. The Royal Observatory, Edinburgh sits near the top of the hill, where astronomical research is carried out by scientists and students. It was opened in 1896 and is still operational today.

The Botanics

Corstorphine Hill Tower

Cramond Beach

Cramond is is the furthest north-west suburb of Edinburgh. A long promenade runs along the Firth of Forth from north Edinburgh, all the way out to the mouth of the River Almond. As you walk away from Edinburgh and towards Cramond itself, an expansive beach opens out at low tide, which allows access to Cramond Island by foot for part of the day. It’s been one of my favourite places to go for walks since moving here, within just a few miles of our home. It’s also right underneath the approaching flight path for the nearby Edinburgh Airport.

Cramond Causeway

Cramond Island

Approaching Cramond Island via the causeway at low-tide, you land on a beach beneath an old Second World War era fortress. From there you can either walk inland, towards the top of the hill at the centre of the island, or follow the beach round the edge of the island. The recommended crossing times allow four hours each day in which to visit the island and return to the mainland. There are twelve islands in the Forth, some of which are important sites for breeding seabirds such as gannets and puffins. Cramond Island is possibly the one which receives the highest footfall from locals and tourists, so it’s not quite as suitable for a seabird nesting colony.

Dean Village

This building in Dean Village (on the left-hand side) was built in 1886 for housing. It's often photographed, but I'm including it because it's somewhere I wouldn't have known about as a tourist in the city. I had no idea there was a river in Edinburgh before moving here. When the pandemic first hit the UK, Dean Village and the Water of Leith quickly became one of our go-to routes for daily exercise.

Granton Harbour

Granton Harbour

There has been a harbour at Granton since the mid-19th century, initially serving for the import and export of goods as well as a base for fishing vessels. Between the 1850s - 1960s, a ferry service ran between this harbour and Burntisland in Fife, providing a primary means of crossing the Forth before the Forth Bridge was opened in 1890. It was also used by the Royal Navy in the First and Second World Wars. Today it’s a popular place for locals to walk along the breakwater or bathe and swim in the Forth at Wardie Bay, a small beach just next to the harbour. It’s also home to two yacht clubs. There are plans to develop the area with retirement homes and residential flats, a hotel and spa, and a large 427-berth marina.

Granton Lighthouse

Granton Lighthouse

This old lighthouse building on West Harbour Road was built in 1874. It's unusual because it’s situated roughly half a kilometre from the nearest water's edge, and was designed for testing and training purposes rather than signalling to passing ships and vessels. The building looks abandoned today; the Northern Lighthouse Board who once occupied and used this building moved to a more modern premises in Oban in 2001. More recently, it’s been used as an arts hub and recording studio.

Lauriston Castle

Lauriston Castle

Lauriston Castle is tucked away between Silverknowes and Cramond, suburbs in north-west Edinburgh. Part of the building dates back to the 16th century, while a larger part results from 19th century extensions and renovations. It was owned and lived in by a succession of wealthy families, until in 1926 its last owner died and left the castle in trust to the nation. Since then it has been managed by the City of Edinburgh Council, and is open to visitors (outside of COVID restrictions) as a museum. The grounds are free to visit, featuring a modern Japanese-inspired garden and some stunning views over the Firth of Forth, Cramond Island and Fife.

Leith Shore

The Shore is a good place to go for independent bars, cafes and restaurants, and soon it will become more accessible from the city centre via a new tramline. It’s a place with a rich history, as well; there are signs of Leith’s historical importance as commercial docks in the architecture and other details around here. This is also where the Water of Leith, which runs through Edinburgh, joins the Port of Leith and, from there, the Firth of Forth.

Port of Leith

The Port of Leith is Scotland’s largest enclosed deep-water port and a variety of industrial, cargo and leisure vessels dock here. Leith is often described as an up-and-coming area. There is a strong industrial presence here, but also a sense of regeneration with the development of a new tram line from the city centre, modern residential developments and the shopping and entertainment complex at Ocean Terminal, as well as a vibrant creative scene and many small, independent businesses based locally.

Newhaven Harbour

Newhaven Harbour

Before moving to Edinburgh I never thought of it as a seaside city. The Firth of Forth is not exactly the same as open sea - it's more of an estuary - but it looks and smells just like the sea. The red building here houses a small number of fish restaurants and a fishmonger. There's always an enticing smell of fish and chips here. One day, we watched a young seal foraging for food amongst the seaweed on the harbour walls.

Newhaven Lighthouse

Portobello Beach

Portobello Beach

The beach at Portobello is a popular spot for bathers, swimmers, dog walkers and people who, like me, just enjoy being by the sea. The promenade is a little over a mile long. I've seen gannets diving not far off-shore here, probably from the large colony at Bass Rock, just along the coast from here. Others have reported seeing marine wildlife such as dolphins and, in 2020, even a swordfish from here. It's also a good place to get an ice cream.

Portobello Pottery Kilns

Portobello Pottery Kilns

In Portobello there are two historic, industrial pottery kilns which have somehow survived in a quiet backstreet behind the promenade since first being built over a century ago. The first of the two was built in 1906, and the second in 1909. They were originally used by Buchan Pottery for making various kinds of jars and bottles for things like jam, ginger beer and whisky. The kiln in this photo was rebuilt following an accidental partial collapse during a repair project in 2006. The second, behind this one, is now also being rebuilt. Together they are the last remaining examples of industrial bottle kilns in Scotland. Buchan Pottery relocated to Crieff, Perthshire in 1972 and ceased production in 2000.

Saughton Park

Saughton Park (pronounced ‘Sockton’) in the south-west of Edinburgh features a formal garden which is diligently maintained and looks particularly vibrant in the summer. It’s right next to a large and very popular outdoor skate park. The Water of Leith also runs alongside the park and it’s possible to walk here along the Water of Leith path all the way from the north of the city.

Trinity Station

Trinity Station

A network of 19th century railway routes, long since dismantled, connects various parts of Edinburgh and are preserved and used today as footpaths and cycle ways. In Trinity, one of the old stations still stands, now converted to residential housing, along with both of the original platforms either side of the path. As well as being a great way to get around whilst avoiding busy roads and traffic, these paths also act as green wildlife corridors through the city. They also connect with the Water of Leith path, which leads further south and west of the city centre.

Warriston Cemetery

Warriston Cemetery

I first visited Warriston Cemetery on the day of the summer solstice. It's a haven for wildlife, a designated Local Biodiversity Site and a Site of Special Scientific Interest, thankfully spared any excessive pruning and clearing but carefully looked after by a group of local volunteers. The cemetery was first put to use in 1843 and many fascinating examples of Victorian and Edwardian tombstones remain intact here to the present day.

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