Another Edinburgh
In 2020, I moved to Edinburgh. Limited by COVID-19 travel restrictions, I have spent much of the last year exploring my immediate local surroundings. In order to better understand and connect with my new home city, I am photographing local sites and landmarks, learning about the history of each area, and trying to look beyond the city's more well-known, frequently Instagrammed locations. This is an ongoing project and a work-in-progress.
Anthony Gormley's 6 TIMES
An instantly recognisable sculpture by Anthony Gormley on the Water of Leith, near the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art. There are six sculptures which follow a route from the gallery along the Water of Leith, with the final figure standing on the end of an old jetty at Leith Docks, near where the river meets the Firth of Forth. Gormley calls the series 6 TIMES. This is the second in the series.
Blackford Hill
Blackford Hill, in the south of the city, offers some of the most impressive views over Edinburgh, towards Arthur’s Seat and the Firth of Forth, as well as the Pentland Hills in the other direction. It’s a little further out of town than most of the usual tourist spots, and it feels like being on the edge of the hills rather than in the middle of a city. The Royal Observatory, Edinburgh sits near the top of the hill, where astronomical research is carried out by scientists and students. It was opened in 1896 and is still operational today.
The Botanics
The Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh has a 350-year history, from its 17th-century origins as a physic garden used to supply herbal remedies to local doctors, to the visitor attraction it is today. It's been one of my favourite places to visit since moving to Edinburgh, and of course it changes throughout the year.
Corstorphine Hill Tower
There's an old tower on the top of Corstorphine Hill, in the suburbs of Edinburgh. It was built in 1871 as a memorial for the centenary of the birth of Sir Walter Scott. It's quite tall; five storeys high with, apparently, an interior spiral staircase of 100 iron steps. As far as I'm aware it serves no particular function other than the commemorative one.
Cramond Beach
Cramond is is the furthest north-west suburb of Edinburgh. A long promenade runs along the Firth of Forth from north Edinburgh, all the way out to the mouth of the River Almond. As you walk away from Edinburgh and towards Cramond itself, an expansive beach opens out at low tide, which allows access to Cramond Island by foot for part of the day. It’s been one of my favourite places to go for walks since moving here, within just a few miles of our home. It’s also right underneath the approaching flight path for the nearby Edinburgh Airport.
Cramond Causeway
A causeway leads from the mouth of the River Almond to the nearby Cramond Island; the causeway is lined with Second World War era sea defences. At low tide you can walk along the causeway to the island. From the top of the island you can see some great views over the Forth and back towards the mainland and over the causeway, as this photograph demonstrates.
Cramond Island
Approaching Cramond Island via the causeway at low-tide, you land on a beach beneath an old Second World War era fortress. From there you can either walk inland, towards the top of the hill at the centre of the island, or follow the beach round the edge of the island. The recommended crossing times allow four hours each day in which to visit the island and return to the mainland. There are twelve islands in the Forth, some of which are important sites for breeding seabirds such as gannets and puffins. Cramond Island is possibly the one which receives the highest footfall from locals and tourists, so it’s not quite as suitable for a seabird nesting colony.
Dean Village
This building in Dean Village (on the left-hand side) was built in 1886 for housing. It's often photographed, but I'm including it because it's somewhere I wouldn't have known about as a tourist in the city. I had no idea there was a river in Edinburgh before moving here. When the pandemic first hit the UK, Dean Village and the Water of Leith quickly became one of our go-to routes for daily exercise.
Granton Harbour
There has been a harbour at Granton since the mid-19th century, initially serving for the import and export of goods as well as a base for fishing vessels. Between the 1850s - 1960s, a ferry service ran between this harbour and Burntisland in Fife, providing a primary means of crossing the Forth before the Forth Bridge was opened in 1890. It was also used by the Royal Navy in the First and Second World Wars. Today it’s a popular place for locals to walk along the breakwater or bathe and swim in the Forth at Wardie Bay, a small beach just next to the harbour. It’s also home to two yacht clubs. There are plans to develop the area with retirement homes and residential flats, a hotel and spa, and a large 427-berth marina.
Granton Lighthouse
This old lighthouse building on West Harbour Road was built in 1874. It's unusual because it’s situated roughly half a kilometre from the nearest water's edge, and was designed for testing and training purposes rather than signalling to passing ships and vessels. The building looks abandoned today; the Northern Lighthouse Board who once occupied and used this building moved to a more modern premises in Oban in 2001. More recently, it’s been used as an arts hub and recording studio.
Lauriston Castle
Lauriston Castle is tucked away between Silverknowes and Cramond, suburbs in north-west Edinburgh. Part of the building dates back to the 16th century, while a larger part results from 19th century extensions and renovations. It was owned and lived in by a succession of wealthy families, until in 1926 its last owner died and left the castle in trust to the nation. Since then it has been managed by the City of Edinburgh Council, and is open to visitors (outside of COVID restrictions) as a museum. The grounds are free to visit, featuring a modern Japanese-inspired garden and some stunning views over the Firth of Forth, Cramond Island and Fife.
Leith Shore
The Shore is a good place to go for independent bars, cafes and restaurants, and soon it will become more accessible from the city centre via a new tramline. It’s a place with a rich history, as well; there are signs of Leith’s historical importance as commercial docks in the architecture and other details around here. This is also where the Water of Leith, which runs through Edinburgh, joins the Port of Leith and, from there, the Firth of Forth.
Port of Leith
The Port of Leith is Scotland’s largest enclosed deep-water port and a variety of industrial, cargo and leisure vessels dock here. Leith is often described as an up-and-coming area. There is a strong industrial presence here, but also a sense of regeneration with the development of a new tram line from the city centre, modern residential developments and the shopping and entertainment complex at Ocean Terminal, as well as a vibrant creative scene and many small, independent businesses based locally.
Miller’s Mausoleum
On a quiet suburban street lined with bungalows and a bowling club, there's a 30-foot high mausoleum featuring two large relief sculptures depicting biblical scenes. It's the final resting place of William Henry Miller, who died in 1848, and was a wealthy landowner and Member of Parliament in his time. Miller died with no children to leave his estate to, and so he allocated £20,000 in his will for the construction of this monolithic grave, which at the time would have been situated in open moorland. It was completed in 1856, 8 years after Miller’s death. Suburbia rose around it in the years since, but the mausoleum itself still stands as a listed building. It's known locally as the Craigentinny Marbles.
Newhaven Harbour
Before moving to Edinburgh I never thought of it as a seaside city. The Firth of Forth is not exactly the same as open sea - it's more of an estuary - but it looks and smells just like the sea. The red building here houses a small number of fish restaurants and a fishmonger. There's always an enticing smell of fish and chips here. One day, we watched a young seal foraging for food amongst the seaweed on the harbour walls.
Newhaven Lighthouse
This lighthouse was built in 1869, and whilst it is no longer in service in its original capacity, it still stands as a distinctive historical feature at the entrance to the harbour.
Pilrig House
Pilrig House is located on the edge of Pilrig Park, between Leith and the city centre. There is an excellent information panel outside the house which I shall briefly paraphrase here. Built in 1638, Pilrig House was originally a Laird’s house, and has seen several owners since the 17th century. A grandfather of Robert Louis Stevenson was born here, and the house was mentioned in the latter’s novels. By the early 1970s the house was apparently in a state of disrepair, following a deterioration with age which was accelerated by fires in 1971 and 72, destroying parts of the building. It was restored in the 1980s and now contains six apartments including three luxury holiday lets.
Portobello Beach
The beach at Portobello is a popular spot for bathers, swimmers, dog walkers and people who, like me, just enjoy being by the sea. The promenade is a little over a mile long. I've seen gannets diving not far off-shore here, probably from the large colony at Bass Rock, just along the coast from here. Others have reported seeing marine wildlife such as dolphins and, in 2020, even a swordfish from here. It's also a good place to get an ice cream.
Portobello Pottery Kilns
In Portobello there are two historic, industrial pottery kilns which have somehow survived in a quiet backstreet behind the promenade since first being built over a century ago. The first of the two was built in 1906, and the second in 1909. They were originally used by Buchan Pottery for making various kinds of jars and bottles for things like jam, ginger beer and whisky. The kiln in this photo was rebuilt following an accidental partial collapse during a repair project in 2006. The second, behind this one, is now also being rebuilt. Together they are the last remaining examples of industrial bottle kilns in Scotland. Buchan Pottery relocated to Crieff, Perthshire in 1972 and ceased production in 2000.
Saughton Park
Saughton Park (pronounced ‘Sockton’) in the south-west of Edinburgh features a formal garden which is diligently maintained and looks particularly vibrant in the summer. It’s right next to a large and very popular outdoor skate park. The Water of Leith also runs alongside the park and it’s possible to walk here along the Water of Leith path all the way from the north of the city.
Starbank Park
Starbank Park in Trinity is without a doubt one of the prettiest of Edinburgh’s parks, especially in the spring and summer. It is lovingly maintained by local volunteers. Half of the park (the half not pictured here) is, essentially, a flower garden, whilst the other half opens out onto a grassy bank overlooking the vista of the Firth of Forth towards Fife. It’s a great place to sit on a warm, sunny day, looking out at the view, or taking in the peaceful surroundings.
The small park was originally private grounds for Starbank House, built in 1815, which still stands in the centre of the park today. The local town council bought the property and opened the grounds to the public in the late 19th century. For many years the house belonged to a park-keeper, and now it is divided into flats for retired Council workers.
It’s astonishing to think that the community group Friends of Starbank Park only began restoring the park to its current glory in 2013; before my time as an Edinburgh resident, but the group claims to have removed over 30 tonnes of weeds and planted thousands of plants in the process.
The small park was originally private grounds for Starbank House, built in 1815, which still stands in the centre of the park today. The local town council bought the property and opened the grounds to the public in the late 19th century. For many years the house belonged to a park-keeper, and now it is divided into flats for retired Council workers.
It’s astonishing to think that the community group Friends of Starbank Park only began restoring the park to its current glory in 2013; before my time as an Edinburgh resident, but the group claims to have removed over 30 tonnes of weeds and planted thousands of plants in the process.
Trinity Station
A network of 19th century railway routes, long since dismantled, connects various parts of Edinburgh and are preserved and used today as footpaths and cycle ways. In Trinity, one of the old stations still stands, now converted to residential housing, along with both of the original platforms either side of the path. As well as being a great way to get around whilst avoiding busy roads and traffic, these paths also act as green wildlife corridors through the city. They also connect with the Water of Leith path, which leads further south and west of the city centre.
Warriston Cemetery
I first visited Warriston Cemetery on the day of the summer solstice. It's a haven for wildlife, a designated Local Biodiversity Site, thankfully spared any excessive pruning and clearing but carefully looked after by a group of local volunteers. The cemetery was first put to use in 1843 and many fascinating examples of Victorian and Edwardian tombstones remain intact here to the present day.